Welcome to the 2015 release of Quill & Pad’s initial Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) forecasts in which we pick our top choices and clarify why.
Our specialists are:
Ian Skellern (IS), prime supporter and specialized director
Joshua Munchow (JM), occupant geek writer
GaryG (GG), occupant collector
What Makes Me Tick (WMMT), occupant opinionator and storyteller
Note: as a GPHG jury part, Quill & Pad editorial manager in-boss Elizabeth Doerr is rejected from these predictions.
According to the GPHG’s principles, Artistic Crafts watches ought to exhibit excellent dominance of one or a few artistic procedures, for example, plating, lacquering, etching, guilloche (motor turning), skeleton-working, etc.
JM: In the Artistic Crafts class, the magnificence of expertise is in plain view. This expertise is difficult to measure, really, as once you pass a particular degree of greatness the strategies and cycles are one of a kind to such an extent that they have no equivalents. So it is dependent upon us to discover approaches to make them equivalent, or at any rate say why one is superior to the other.
WMMT: What an astonishing set here, each of the six watches are a much welcomed sight: fragile, exquisite, and unquestionably wearable.
Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke
IS: While I had issues choosing my two other participants, ahead of all comers in this classification was an easy decision for me: Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke. Indeed, even without the artistic Rio de Janeiro/Christ the Redeemer-roused marquetry cover, I’d pick Logical One only for the development as that’s a masterpiece in itself to the extent I’m concerned.
But we should leave aside the development to zero in on the workmanship. Brazilian craftsman (and long-term companion of the Gauthier family) Kakau Höfke previously concocted the subject, style, materials and shadings, and afterward Geneva-based miniature marquetry expert Olivier Vaucher laser-cut, cleaned, and applied the small tiles − which are cut from a similar stone and applied in a similar example as the promenade on Ipanema Beach in Rio de Janeiro.
The cover (like the sapphire precious stone under) is slightly bended, which would have made undesirable holes between the tiles, so the sides of each tile are cut at a point. Furthermore, instead of cleaning the tiles in the wake of setting, which would have been speedy and simple, the tiles were completely cleaned level prior to setting so that light reflects off the numerous features as opposed to a straightforward curve.
And I likewise think it’s a decent touch that the subdials under the cover are additionally set with a similar miniature marquetry. Extraordinary watch, incredible craftsmanship, incredible execution. Simple choice.
GG: The marquetry work on this piece is simply magnificent looking, and the picture portrayed is both moving and agreeable with the vibe of the watch in general. Obviously, the basic piece is really extraordinary as well, yet this class is about the crafts! It’s my sprinter up.
JM: For my second next in line I needed to go with the Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke for the unadulterated excellence and delicacy with which it conveyed a flawless illustration of miniature marquetry. Covering an external case and the dial of the watch, 352 minuscule fragmented tiles of lavender jade and blue agate make up a stone duplicate of a composition portraying the Christ the Redeemer sculpture. The blue agate covers the lavender jade and gives profundity where it is by all accounts impossible.
For more data see Christ The Redeemer On A Watch: Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke By Romain Gauthier .
Quick Facts Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke
Movement: in-house produce development with consistent power, push winding, sapphire connection chain, amazingly significant degree of hand-wrapping up
Case: 43 x 15 mm, white gold
Cover and dial: stone miniature marquetry transformation of Kakau Höfke’s Rio de Janeiro fine art on white gold cover and subdials, 270 lavender jade tiles in addition to 82 blue agate tiles, laser-cut, reflect cleaned and hand-fitted
Capacities: hours, minutes, little seconds; 46-hour power save pointer
Limit: extraordinary piece
Cost: 225,000 Swiss francs
Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic 36mm
IS: What enchants me to the Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly is the way that the dial doesn’t use butterfly wings thusly. All things being equal, the dial has been fastidiously painted with the brilliant powder reaped from the outside of butterfly wings. The impact is unprecedented and the tones streak in the light.
One of I’m sure numerous advantages of Harry Winston being essential for the Swatch Group is admittance to acceptable developments, and the delightfully completed automatic development with silicon hairspring and 72-hour power hold controlling the Precious Butterfly shows that the relationship is bearing fruit.
GG: This was somewhat of an intense call for me. I imagine that the watch is simply dazzling and the utilization of novel material is very innovative. All things considered, I feel truly downright awful the helpless butterflies who gave their for this watch (despite the fact that none were hurt in its making)!
I will be intrigued to see whether the potential “eeew” factor will fend purchasers off or whether, by the day’s end, magnificence will triumph.
WMMT: Gary, I was wavering between the Hermès and the Harry Winston for my best three. I’m really astonished by the Harry Winston watch, however utilizing butterfly wings is somewhat unpleasant in my book, so that is the reason it didn’t make it into my best three after all.
JM: The principal sprinter up for me must be the Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic. This watch, while female, is a work of art of fragile expertise as the dial is an ideal plan portraying butterfly wings utilizing the unthinkably glowing powder from said wings. It is sensitive and delightful, bringing about a dial that can be interminably viewed.
Quick Facts Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic 36mm
Movement: automatic Caliber HW2008 with silicon balance spring
Case: 36 x 8.4 mm, pink gold, set with 57 splendid cut precious stones (2.32 ct)
Dial: butterfly marquetry theme utilizing powder from butterfly wings and
Capacities: hours, minutes
Cost: 41,000 Swiss francs
Hermès Slim d’Hermès Koma Kurabe
IS: The four other pre-chosen watches are generally genuinely standard models with painted or engraved dials, and without considering them with a loupe it’s hard to pass judgment on artistic quality. While the Piaget Altiplano merits an extraordinary notice only for bringing “scrimshaw” to our consideration, it’s simply an incredible word.
My third pick must be the Slim d’Hermès Koma Kurabe on the grounds that I like the fantastic feel of Aka-e painting. The work of art is an ideal equilibrium for a watch dial by being sufficiently clear to value the entirety of the complicated subtleties, however dynamic enough to become only a background theme during everyday use so it world not get boring.
WMMT: Like everything by Hermès, this watch simply transmits class and Parisian stylish. The unpretentious tones of the dial are suggestive, and I’m happy to such an extent that there is no Chinese folklore in it. Not that I have anything against Chinese practices and folklore, however for as far back as years that is ALL we have been seeing, so it’s a decent change here!
For more, if it’s not too much trouble, see Koma Kurabe: The Slim d’Hermès With Authentic Japanese Porcelain Enamel Dial.
Quick Facts Hermès Slim d’Hermès Koma Kurabe
Case: 39.5 x 8.24 mm, white gold
Development: automatic Caliber H1950, super level at 2.6 mm in stature; miniature rotor
Dial: porcelain from Manufacture National de Sèvres with smaller than normal composition by Japanese craftsman Buzan Fukushima
Capacities: hours, minutes
Impediment: 12 pieces
Cost: 60,000 Swiss francs
Girard-Perregaux The Chambers of Wonders – The New World
GG: The incredible utilization of little stone mosaics on this piece made it a competitor in my book. All things considered, we’ve seen numerous métiers d’art pieces over the course of the years from Vacheron Constantin and others that have highlighted such guides in an assortment of materials, so toward the day’s end I’ve set this one in third spot simply behind the Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke.
WMMT: What a superb watch! The dial is a challenge to go and to rediscover the patina of a charming yet bygone world. It is additionally sensitive, brilliant, and carefully made.
Quick Facts Girard-Perregaux The Chambers of Wonders – The New World
Case: 40 x 9.94 mm, pink gold
Development: automatic Caliber GP3300-0060
Dial: stone marquetry utilizing blue and pink aventurine, calcite, and nephrite and small canvas
Capacities: hours, minutes
Limit: 18 pieces
Cost: 48,600 Swiss francs
Blancpain Villeret Cadran Shakudō
JM: Given the two other participants, and the remainder of the competitors in this classification, the victor comes down to my own style and one factor: detail. Each piece in the running has huge detail, however the one with the most detail (and the style I like best) is the Blancpain Villeret Cadran Shakudō.
The portrayal on the dial is marvelously complex, made totally by hand, and includes various strides of readiness, etching, get together, and wrapping up. I love the examples in question, and however I am inadequate in the pertinent strict confidence, the iconography of Ganesh is magnificent. Only the most high-goal photograph or an extremely amazing magnifying lens will permit sufficient enthusiasm for the detail in this dial. I couldn’t want anything more than to be given hours with it under high amplification to look at the amazing artistic specialty in plain view in this piece.
WMMT: When considering artistic crafts, Blancpain infrequently comes to mind, however this piece is simply wow! The subject and the manner in which it is dealt with is amazing. Simply take a gander at the tones; everything is unpretentious. A brassy watch with sotto voce class, so it gets my vote here for first prize.
Quick Facts Blancpain Villeret Cadran Shakudō
Case: 45 x 8.3 mm, red gold
Development: manual winding Caliber 15B
Dial: engraved and damascened Japanese shakudō
Capacities: hours, minutes
Impediment: 1 piece
Cost: 150,000 Swiss francs
Ian: Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke
Joshua: Blancpain Villeret Cadran Shakudō
GaryG: Harry Winston Premier Precious Butterfly
WMMT: Blancpain Villeret Cadran Shakudō