By now, basically each and every individual who follows horological news has found out about and likely seen pictures of the Harry Winston Opus 14 . This is the most recent in the line of trying plans that started with Opus 1 back in 2001 and the first to rise out of Harry Winston since its obtaining by Swatch Group.
Much of the hard information – the 1066 component parts, four separate stacked dials including three tradable ones, the considerable 54.7 mm distance across – is as of now well known.
But how does this monstrously complicated watch “stack up” after a touch of reflection?
What I love about the Harry Winston Opus 14
“We decide to go to the moon and do these different things not on the grounds that they are simple, but since they are hard.” John F. Kennedy, discourse at Rice University, September 12, 1962
It pushes the edge. Over the previous quite a long while, Swatch Group has shown no faltering in taking on exceptionally complex and unique specialized difficulties. During the Opus 14 dispatch, Swatch Group leader Marc Hayek refered to the Blancpain Tourbillon Carrousel just as the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird, which was my pick for the 2015 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s watch of the year, as two examples.
He proceeded to take note of, “The uplifting news with this watch is that we didn’t need to notice any fixed brand DNA or styling red line; indeed, the red line with Opus is that it must be different.”
With Opus 14, Swatch Group has taken on the dare.
Its creators are aficionados. During the dispatch Hayek said on a few events, “I simply love watches!” The expression all over each time he said that and his conspicuous enjoyment each time he looked at the watch talked volumes.
His clear commitment to this piece stretched out to his enlivened showing of its highlights to our authority bunch at the dispatch after gathering (see Live Photos Of Harry Winston Opus 14 Plus Comments From Marc Hayek ) and his readiness to fill in as my own wrist model preceding the press instructions the accompanying morning.
The same was valid for the calm pride that development planners Franck Orny and Johnny Girardin showed at the press instructions and during our authorities’ lunch with them on the day following the enormous dispatch party.
It’s a wonderful robot. While it’s introduced as a watch and situated as a jukebox, by the day’s end for me this piece is best seen as a machine. What’s more, as seen through that perspective it’s a fine one at that.
The combination of vertical and level development we find in this piece was forecasted by the Montblanc Metamorphosis pieces likewise planned by Orny and Girardin, however in the Opus 14 we see an alternate, and exceptionally imaginative, application: a multi-plate stack that goes here and there like a small lift in combination with a swing arm that moves three of the circles onto, and off from, a little turntable.
In the photograph over, the turntable is obviously noticeable at the upper right corner of the watch. The activity is constrained by two turning rings; the external draws in the date circle when it is set up, and the inward ring associates with, and positions, the subsequent time region disc.
Two little ordering pins on each ring discover spaces on the underside of the individual circle and draw in, and afterward the turntable twists the plate into the appropriate position. You can likewise see the teeth on the external edge of the turntable that draw in with the pushers at the highest point of the watch to address the date and GMT indications.
It works. Extensive work at the Blancpain labs went into making the development hearty and guaranteeing its capacity. While I’m not exactly sure that “It works!” is a rousing maxim, it is absolutely a consoling one.
While a cycle of care should be practiced to guarantee that the selector switch for the plates is appropriately situated and the turning controller has come to rest between actuations, these precautionary measures appear to be entirely sensible to me and will be normal to any individual who has worked a rehashing watch.
It shows helpful data in a decipherable manner. At the day’s end, I like a watch to be decipherable. Very numerous watches today, both conventional and vanguard, appear to overlook the basic principle that they should bestow data. Double cross zones and a schedule are helpful signs; the retrograde moment show the two meets the restrictions of the plate design and gives visual interest.
And, as a little something extra, changing between the presentations is a considerable amount of fun.
What I’m less excited about
“I’ve consistently felt that beauticians as you have in America are embarrassed about a vehicle and are engrossed with making it look like something different, similar to a submarine or a carrier… As a specialist, I rebel against this.” Sir Alec Issigonis, fashioner of the first Mini car, cited in the New York Times.
It’s not a jukebox. At the dispatch, Nayla Hayek, CEO of Harry Winston, dropped a tempting clue that sometime not too far off this component could play music. “That would be fun,” she said.
If truly evident, that would be incredible. And yet, this underlying manifestation misses the mark on that measurement. I additionally discovered that the type of a melodic turntable watch would need to be fairly unique in relation to Opus 14 as the sound transmission characteristics of the current case would not be strong.
I need watches, not ways of life. Perhaps like Sir Alec Issigonis cited above, I’m uncovering my designing foundation here. In any case, the Hollywood-Walk-of Fame-meets-Route-66 styling, period situating, and pop-star ambassadorship appear to be somewhat shallow, and here and there for me really bring down the thing is a fascinating specialized achievement.
The bundling is risky. On or off the wrist, this piece is huge surely; and with no ebb and flow of the vertical angle to mollify the look, it shows up much bigger than it is.
One of the stock photographs of Opus 14 shows what looks practically like a dark DLC finish to the case, which could be one road to consider in outwardly cutting the obvious size, and could be incredible looking with the dark dial. Dark is, all things considered, famously slimming.
It’s a barrel-driven machine with restricted force save. One of the waiting recollections of the dispatch was of different people angrily winding the watch to reestablish the turntable’s force save, which has limit with regards to five in-and-out plate movements.
Admittedly, in certifiable utilize one probably won’t switch between the date and second time region that habitually; however of course, one may! It would have been entrancing to participate in the specialized conversations where the general benefits and impediments of barrel-driven and switch driven models for the complication were debated.
What about the wrapping up? For in excess of 400,000 Swiss Francs, I anticipate refined completing taking all things together respects. And keeping in mind that it very well may be contended that the rough look of the development and specifically the fountainhead barrel are with regards to the plan subject of the watch, it leaves me a piece cold.
One of the huge qualities that Swatch Group brings to its work, to Harry Winston and to the Opus line explicitly, is its solidarity top to bottom: the wide scope of capacities that empower it to make brilliant watches both viably and efficiently.
We heard a great deal at the dispatch about the Swatch Group components that added to Opus 14, from the Harry Winston styling group to the Blancpain base development used and the Blancpain Laboratory group that assisted with interpreting the originators’ vision of the development into the real world and ensure its practicality.
These are great qualities, yet my waiting impression of the Opus 14 is of an honorable exertion made by to some degree detached gatherings of specialists and advertisers working in equal, as opposed to by a completely incorporated group or single energetic creator.
I’m likewise left with a touch of interest in what may have been: was the “tasteful” circle initially imagined as a sound-production system in the development? Maybe that is only this watch enthusiast’s dream; yet what a great possibility!
For more data, if it’s not too much trouble, visit www.harrywinston.com/opus-14 .
Case: 54.7 x 21.9 mm, 18-karat white gold
Development: manual winding Caliber HW4601, robot complication, 68-hour power save, two spring barrels (primary and activity), silicon balance
Capacities: home time with hour and retrograde minutes; second time region, date, robot power hold, primary force save; GMT, date, and adjustable stylish plates situated by swinging arm
Constraint: 50 pieces
Cost: 428,000 Swiss francs