In my most extravagant fantasies, I never suspected I’d expound on two diverse pad formed chronographs made particularly for ladies. This is an especially pleasant exercise for me as the two chronographs I inspect here are by two of the most customary watch fabricates at work today: Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe.
The pad shape is an irregular one, infrequently found in current watchmaking. Like the tonneau shape, it emerged from the watchmaker’s need in the beginning of the wristwatch to separate from the pocket watch.
As the first wristwatch cases were pretty much reconfigured pocket watches, producers were enthusiastic about showing their potential customer bases that they were improving. In this manner, they created new case shapes.
I have consistently had a specific weakness for the pad shape, thinking that its extremely satisfying with its adjusted corners and delicate, streaming lines.
So in 2009, when Patek Philippe respected the two ladies and the pad formed case with a wristwatch called Ladies First, I was in reality very pleased.
Patek Philippe Caliber 29-535
I was considerably more satisfied to find that its movement was a noteworthy one for the admired Genevan produce: it was the first hand-wound chronograph completely imagined, created, and made in-house.
You may ponder somewhat about the last articulation, for Caliber 27-70 was for quite some time viewed as an excellent, exemplary hand-wound chronograph movement, one that likewise given the base to Patek Philippe’s interminable calendar.
Introduced in 1986, Caliber 27-70 depended on the 2310 ébauche conveyed by Nouvelle Lémania to Patek Philippe’s determinations – details severe and exquisite enough to satisfy measures for the Seal of Geneva after Patek Philippe’s own watchmakers had improved it. Type 27-70 was utilized in such exemplary watches as the Patek Philippe Reference 5070 chronograph.
Ladies First’s type was fresh out of the plastic new and explicitly intended to control the up and coming age of Patek Philippe chronographs and never-ending schedules. Named 29-535 to pay tribute to its measurements, the Ladies First movement imparts various components to its archetype – nonetheless, measurements are not one of them. At 29 mm in distance across, Caliber 29-535 is two millimeters bigger than Caliber 27-70, while its stature is to some degree lower.
Ladies First is constrained by an ordinary, current arrangement of two beginning/pause and reset catches on the correct side of the case. The manner in which the chronograph runs is, nonetheless, very one of a kind. Type 29-535’s 269 components were imagined to have the subsequent counter additionally go about as the running second hand, essentially inconceivable in such a movement.
Caliber 29-535 flaunts an ensured 65 hours of force save with the chronograph running and over 70 hours if the clock isn’t activated.
Laurent Junod, responsible for Patek Philippe’s U.S. administration focus, clarified that one of the six licenses conceded for the movement – which are all focused on improved unwavering quality – is for the unbalanced tooth profile of the chronograph’s grasp system. It is this detail that makes both this long force save conceivable and furthermore guarantees a lot of smoother chronograph recycled activity, evading a large part of the bouncing regularly seen under a technician’s high velocity camera.
While Caliber 27-70, which swayed at 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph) was furnished with a vertical grasp – a grip control framework many think about head honcho among chronograph instruments – the new 3 Hz (28,800 vph) movement is equipped with a more customary even grip. “We needed this to be a completely conventional movement,” Junod clarified of the type dedicated with Patek Philippe’s own seal (which satisfies all the models of the Seal of Geneva as well).
One other significant distinction between the new and old movements is found in the hacking seconds of Caliber 29-535, which implies that when the crown is pulled out the equilibrium wheel quits, permitting the watch to be set absolutely to the second by its owner.
Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1142
The little Harmony chronograph was presented as a component of the full arrangement of seven pad formed watches this similarly revered Genevan fabricate brought out of appreciation for its 260th commemoration at the 2015 SIHH. (For additional on this, kindly read Vacheron Constantin’s Harmony Collection: Poetry In Chronographic Motion .)
Here, as well, I felt extraordinary appreciation at this brand thinking to incorporate something that would engage female epicureans. While the remainder of the Harmony assortment contains movements explicitly planned and made for these watches, the Harmony Chronograph Small Model contains an improved interpretation of the Nouvelle Lémania Caliber 2310 that Vacheron Constantin has named Caliber 1142 (as it is additionally a variety of the all around existent Caliber 1141, likewise dependent on a similar Lémania caliber).
Caliber 1141 has been utilized as a base movement in different Vacheron Constantin models, including the Malte, Traditionelle, (for example, the Reference 47292 chronograph ceaseless schedule), and Les Historiques chronograph (Reference 49002) lines for more than 20 years.
As with Patek Philippe’s unique Caliber 27-70, the ébauche conveyed from Breguet (presently the proprietor of Nouvelle Lémania; the flow Breguet industrial facility is the old Lémania production line) is so very much made that after Vacheron Constantin has completed it achieves the Seal of Geneva – one of Vacheron Constantin’s large draws being its extraordinary wrapping up. The movement has likewise been adjusted to include a higher recurrence of 3 Hz (21,000 vph) versus the 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph) of the past Caliber 1141.
The greatest distinction, however, is that the swan-neck fine change has been exchanged out for miniature screw guideline on the equilibrium wheel. A Maltese cross has been added to the section wheel screw with regards to Vacheron Constantin’s custom of fine completing and utilizing its customary seal inside the movement where possible.
While there might be outrageous idealists who wrinkle their noses at this proceeded with training of utilizing the Lémania ébauches, we should remember two significant realities: one, this base movement is unfathomably solid, which is the fundamental purpose behind its proceeded with use by Vacheron Constantin, the most seasoned ceaselessly working assembling in Switzerland. Also, two, as Lémania presently has a place with the Swatch Group, which is genuinely checking movements offered to outsiders, the movement has become very rare.
Today, one just discovers this Lémania chronograph movement ticking away inside the watches of esteemed brands.
The types of the restricted version Harmony watches presented in this commemoration year contain an uncommon etching that the resulting limitless assortment pieces won’t have: a looking over theme propelled by the etching found on the equilibrium cockerel of the most established pocket watch in Vacheron Constantin’s ownership, from 1755 and endorsed by Jean-Marc Constantin.
Known as fleurisanne-style etching, this improving expansion shows up on the rotor, the chronograph connect, and the equilibrium cockerel. A commemorative engraving is additionally found working on this issue back of the commemoration timepieces.
Ladies First especially imitates Patek Philippe’s 1930s style, which then-top of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva Arnaud Tellier has named the brilliant time of chronographs. Truth be told, he clarified at the 2009 dispatch that the 39 mm, 18-karat pink gold pad state of the case and the format of the dial could be found in different Patek Philippe monopusher chronographs as ahead of schedule as 1929.
While I may have been less excited about the 136 precious stones decorating this watch in 2009, six years as it were I discover them to be an appreciative and commendable plan component liable to make the chronograph bid more to (other) ladies. The Vacheron Constantin Harmony Chronograph Small Model incorporates 84 precious stones, set similarly with two columns in the corners where the pad molded case broadens further away from the round dial.
The Vacheron Constantin Harmony Chronograph Small Model advances similarly well to me regarding plan. Its plan signs – supervised by the stunning Christian Selmoni, who, with his definite and imaginative eye, is an establishment at Vacheron Constantin – were enlivened by the brand’s first wrist chronograph from 1928: Reference 3306, a monopusher chronograph..
This style was totally rendered in order to become a cutting edge watch with an exemplary polish that doesn’t at all look old-fashioned.
Both the Patek Philippe Ladies First and the Vacheron Constantin Harmony Small Model incorporate two chronograph pushers just like the standard today.
The genuine contrasts in these two plans are to be found in the carries, the adjusting of the case corners, and – obviously – the two house-style dial plans. Every one of the three of these components are subject absolutely to individual taste, and the combination of them will request more to a few and less to others.
The Patek Philippe case is gentler, more adjusted at the corners. It likewise incorporates an extra “bar” at the top and the base with the goal that the joined drags don’t look like unfamiliar bodies. The Vacheron Constantin case is a lot more precise, and its carries and case are one piece following a “shape fit as a fiddle” approach: the sapphire gem is round, just covering the genuine dial and not the corners.
On the Patek Philippe, the sapphire gem is molded like the situation and covers its whole front. Indeed, it has somewhat of a bezel to accommodate the sapphire gem, while the Vacheron Constantin case doesn’t. This permits the last to have a more open look, yet additionally permits it to be two millimeters less in diameter.
That these two delightful chronographs by Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin share a common case shape and in a manner movement history ought not actually come as such a shock. The universe of watches is interlaced with a wide range of common recorded embroidered artwork. Which one a shopper picks in the end is left altogether to individual preferences.
I, for one, similar to them both.
Quick Facts Patek Philippe Ladies First Reference 7071
Case: 39 mm, pink gold, yellow gold or white gold with 136 splendid cut jewels
Movement: physically twisted Caliber 29-535 with segment wheel-controlled chronograph; Patek Philippe Seal
Capacities: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Restriction: restricted creation
Quick Facts Vacheron Constantin Harmony Chronograph Small Model
Case: 37 x 46.6 x 11.74 mm, pink gold with 84 round-cut jewels (approx. 1.2 ct)
Movement: physically twisted Caliber 1142, in view of Nouvelle Lémania Caliber 2310 (authorized from Breguet) with section wheel-controlled chronograph; Seal of Geneva
Capacities: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Impediment: 260 bits of the commemoration release including unique movement etching; a limitless form is normal starting at 2016